Surf


Occy and Curren Redux? E-mail

clash_poster-520x490Can it be true? Occy and Curren, battling it out again? We know the whole retro thing is back in full swing right now but this is just too good.

Thanks to the ingenious marketing ploy by Billabong, we're going to be privy to one of the greatest rivalries this sport has ever seen come July 9. That's right, it's fire and ice and it's on as a special heat during the Billabong Pro J-Bay. Stay tuned to Freesurfmagazine.com as we bring you the goods and the latest info from the battle of the year...all that and these guys aren't even on the tour!

 
Keanu Asing Unstoppable? E-mail

 

 

keanu2

Amid an eclectic mix of the most prodigiously talented junior surfers the world has ever seen stands 16-year-old Hawaiian Keanu Asing. With his mix of power, finesse, and progression, Keanu is the tip of the spear and is comfortably perched at the threshold of surfing’s next big talent boom, ready to lay waste to the old standard and usher himself and his counterparts into surfing’s history. Forge

t the Momentum Generation and their ilk because what Keanu and his cohorts will bring to the game will out shadow anything we’ve ever seen.

Earlier today, Keanu added yet another notch in his belt as he claimed the Nike Pier Pressure Grade-4 event at Huntington Beach in the most lackluster of conditions.

Following his win monumental win, we sat down with Keanu who, despite having been on an unparalleled winning binge this year, remained his humble self.

You’re having a pretty ridiculous year so far. It seems like you’ve won just about every major event you’ve entered. Now with this win scratched off your list, you’re officially scaring your competition. Can you talk a little bit about your win today in Huntington?

Keanu Asing: [laughs] Yeah, it’s been a really good year for me so far. The conditions today for the contest were pretty much horrible. It was tough and it was barely breaking out there, but I got a couple of scores.

How was the competition for your final?

K.A.: The guys I surfed against were so good. They’re all so talented and are such good surfers. It was tough out there for sure. Those guys are just really, really good and I’m glad I won.

Can you talk about the board you rode for the final?

Yeah, for sure. I was actually riding the same board that I won on in Ecuador for the World Games. I think it’s safe to say that it’s a magic board.

You’ve won your fair share of contests this year. Do you ever get used to the feeling of winning and being carried up the beach?

K.A.: No, not really. At least I don’t. I don’t think I’ll ever get used to that feeling…having your friends carry you up the beach. I mean, today, after I won, Rainos [Hayes] Matty [Costa] and Zeke all carried me up the beach. It’s just a great experience.

So what’s next for you?

Well, first we’re gonna go eat some pizza at a place in Newport and then we’re gonna go check out some Go-Karts…I’m pretty psyched.


Ed note: In the past year or so, Keanu Asing has won the following events:


NSSA National Championships, July 2008, Lower Trestles CA, Explorer Boys National Champion

Billabong Pro Junior, August 2008, Canguu, Bali, Event Champion

USA Championships, August 2008, Huntington Beach, CA, Boys Under 16 Champion

USA Championships, August 2008, Huntington Beach, CA, Boys Under 18 Champion

Haleiwa International Open, January 2009, Winner and 3x Defending Champion

NSSA Hawaii Contest, March 2009, Haleiwa, HI, Triple Victory: 1st Place in Open
Men’s, Open Jrs, and Explorer Juniors

NSSA Hawaii Regional Championships, March 2009, Kewalo Basin, HI, Double Victory: 1st Place in Open Men’s and Open JuniorsNSSA Hawaii Conference Champion, Open Juniors

ISA World Surfing Championships, April 2009, Ecuador, World Champion in Boys 16 & Under

Nike Pier Pressure Grade 4, June, 2009, event champ

 
FREESURF Magazine's Picks for WCT Brazil E-mail

Going into Brazil, with the race for the title still very much wide open, we here at FREESURF thought we’d set you wise to our picks to watch out for in the event. Keep in mind that as a collective of writers, editors, and art directors that we’ve only made a few heats competitively (with the exception of Mike Latronic)…so we may not be the best people to give advice on the subject. But then again, that’s never stopped us before. Without further ado, here’s our picks for Brazil. Get some, dear reader.

Kevin Whitton, Editor: I’m going with Jordy Smith. After sticking that ridiculous Rodeo, Brazil will the be the kind of shitty wave that will be perfect for him to pull something crazy…he'll be Rodeo flipping his way to the podium.

Tony Heff, Photo Editor: I’ve got to go with my boy Ceej. Cause he’s from Florida and those guys know their beachbreaks.

Richard Hutter: Art Director: I like Adriano De Souza. The locals will put him in a Brazo trance and I think he’ll win.

Jeff Mull, Associate Editor: Dane Reynolds. Without a doubt, the best surfer alive today. The man's so good I—and the rest of the surf media—truly doesn't care about how he does on tour. That said, it’s about damn time he wins an event.

Mike Latronic, Publisher: Taj Burrow’s my call. In small waves he owns it. Unstoppable. He almost won Tahiti on turns alone.

 
Prone to Sass: Adam Bice on doing it lying down E-mail

4904_88548382990_688487990_1911807_5135593_nIn a word, Adam Bice is "classic." Kauai classic at that. He stems from what may possibly be the most outrageous (read sarcastic) crew of a long line of bodyboarding clans to call the Garden Island home. In between Facebook updates and pulling into closeouts, Bice found a few minutes to chew the fat with FREESURF. Read on. —Jeff Mull

FREESURF Magazine: You're known as being a proponent for the outer island bodyboard movement. Can you talk about how you got into bodyboarding and its roots on Kauai with the Kauai Classic crew?

Adam Bice: I'm known? Kauai? Where's that?

FSM: Convince me. As a surfer, what am I missing by not being a bodyboarder?

AB: A lot of tube time and massive ramps wasted by your selection of water-craft. Minors though, more waves for me.

FSM: What's something bodyboarders have over surfers?

AB: We get more chicks. We are almost getting as many as the Stand-Up paddlers these days.

FSM: Almost...anyway, the whole slab phenom got started with bodyboarders rushing some peaks that weren't deemed surfable. Now trying to kill yourself on ugly waves is oh-so cool to do. What will bodyboarding give surfing next? Don't say dropknee surfing...please.

AB: Dropknee surfing? I dont suggest riding dropknee on a surfingboard. Sounds painful. As for dropknee bodyboarding, it is a rare artform that can be performed stylishly by only a select few. Bodyboarding and surfing are related, but bodyboarding is in another realm. I suggest watching "Boogie Nation 9." It comes out in September. Premieres on Oahu,Maui and Big Eye. So if you surfers want some more inspiration, come to the movie.

FSM: Can't we all just get along or are we to be forever rooted in rivalry? That said, I think you're a pretty cool guy.

AB: The rivalry will always exist as long as humans are ignorant. The next generation of bodyboarders are definately taking no back-seats in the future, I can tell you that much. Yeah Jeff, your cool too, I guess, for a surfer. hahahaah.

FSM: Touche Bice. 

 

 

 
Drenched in Perfect E-mail

1180643715_empty_MLD4683Unless you've been living under a rock lately or have been on a total bender, you're wise to the fact that Town has been sprayed with two weeks straight of overhead swell. You name it—Bowls, Kewalos, Diamond Head—they've all been on a roll lately.

That said, the crew at FREESURF has been covering what's been the greatest June in Town that any of us can remember. Video, photos, editorial...we've been on it from all angles for the entire month. And yeah, we scored some goods. With any luck, we'll be able to come up for air long enough to put the next issue out. Rest assured, dear reader, that you'll be flooded with the Best of Honolulu in the next issue. Stay tuned.

 
Empty the Ashtray: Parking rates on the rise at Kapi‘olani Park E-mail

1180644749_ZachF_MLD4611City Bill 25 proposes a 600 percent increase at meters around Kapi‘olani Park in Waikiki for park and beach parking. The rates will rise from 25 cents for an hour to 25 cents for ten minutes, or $1.50 an hour. The rate increase is scheduled to go into effect on July 1, 2009.

Protests are in place to buck the hike in parking rates. Beginning on June 6, at 3 p.m., volunteers will be rallying with homemade signs and wearing red clothes at the Dillingham Fountain across from the Elk’s Club.

Concerned citizens can also submit written testimony opposing Bill 25 by noon on Tuesday, June 9 to all council members or even better, testify in person on Wednesday, June 10 at the city council meeting at City Hall for one to three minutes of personal testimony. Call 768-5011 to find out the time bill 25 will be heard, and show up en masse.

 
As Long As It Floats E-mail

BBtubeMLD_MG_0698You’d be hard pressed to find a more amicable lot of people than those that call the wave-rich island of Tahiti home. Bonjours, and merics are the words of the day and a friendly smile and nod of the head are as common as the perfect peaks out to sea. Needless to say, we could all learn a lot from the Tahitian people.

But perhaps most interestingly, from what I humbly gathered in my two weeks at the Billabong Pro, the Tahitians are not picky about their quiver. As long as it floats (most of the time) they’re out there. Bodyboard, shortboard, taking turns with your friends—they do it all, as long as it keeps them in the surf.

My eyes were opened to this one afternoon as I sat out in the lineup at Teahupoo, my fingernails digging into the fiberglass on my board, adrenaline pumping through my every vein. But low and behold, out paddles a young crop of teenage bodyboarders and surfers who proceed to dominate the peak, pulling into waves in mere inches of water. After a while, the bodyboarders and surfers would switch out their respective crafts and continued ripping. It was a sight to see. It was unfiltered happiness and stoke. Bodyboard or shortboard, they were having the time of their lives and putting on quite the show in the process.

“I don’t really care if I have to bodyboard or surf. They’re both fun,” said one of the groms after deftly slotting himself a half-dozen times.

After watching these kids laugh and push the limits out at Teahupoo for more than two hours, you can’t really argue with them. As long as they’re stoked and dominating, does it really matter if they’re doing it standing up or lying down? Not in their eyes. —Jeff Mull

 
They’re Here: 2009 Surf into Summer E-mail

1180643045_BillyChoi_MLD4647Local Motion’s Surf Into Summer has been around a long time, decades, and has seen

Read more... [They’re Here: 2009 Surf into Summer]
 
Teahupoo: Final Day E-mail

1180126138_EmptyMLD2747_1After more laydays than I can recall, the powers that be at the Billabong Pro Teahupoo decided to run the final. It was about time as the collective nerves among the 45 had been fried to the core. Too many laydays, and not enough surf = an irritable World Tour. But once the event got underway, you could almost feel the sigh of relief among the sleepy Tahitian village.

Game on.

In the final, Bobby Martinez—a past event champ—took on the likes of WA’s Taj Burrow. From the outset, it was clear that there was no stopping Martinez as the lad pulled into screaming barrel after screaming barrel to the tune of 8 and 9-point rides. Although Taj would attempt to claw his way back from comboland, his efforts would be futile and Bobby would take his second Tahitian crown. To boot, Bobby accomplished all of this while surfing on a borrowed board. A testament to his uncanny ability if there ever was one.

“I actually borrowed a board from Alain Riou,” he said immediately following his win. “He rides Darren Handley shapes and the board was the same dimensions and pretty much the same board I ride. It was great to find that yesterday, as I was a bit skeptical about today in terms of the conditions and my equipment, but everything worked out perfectly.”

In the end, the event may have been plagued by meager surf, but two weeks on Tahiti aint so bad. With that, here’s to many more years of Tahitian drama. —Jeff Mull

Check out extended coverage of Tahiti’s meanest wave in an upcoming issue of Freesurf Magazine.

 
Embedded at Chopes Day 3 E-mail

DannyFullerEB_MLD9065With there being a lay day on the books today, I managed to sneak away from the media tent and walk down the point to make the thousand-yard paddle out to Chopes. Who needs a boat, right? Well, 20 minutes into the paddle and I’m reaching the lineup. What looked to be fun, playful 3-foot Teahupoo was in actuality solid, 5-feet South Pacific power detonating on the razor blades they call “reef” over here.

Forget what you think you’ve seen from the webcast and what you say in front of your friends about surfing Teahupoo: that plays is f—king nuts at any size. Yes, at 5 or 6 feet it’s manageable, but one small mistake and you’re standing on the reef in six inches of water while a 6-footer explodes in your face. Thankfully, I shoulder-hopped a few and didn’t take any beatings…I also didn’t get any bombs as I left that to the likes of Andy, Occy, Parko, and Jordy Smith. It was an experience unlike anything I’ve ever seen watching the greats play with the wave. Everyone seemed on fire, but there was no one in the water that could match Andy. As I paddled out to the lineup, a 5-footer swung wide as Andy dropped in, leagues behind the peak. As the wave went square, Andy pulled in using his trademark Lance Burkhart backside stall. (Eat your heart out Rick Kane.) He was shacked all the way from the point to the inside. You can’t mention Chopes without Andy and you can’t mention Andy without Chopes. After watching him tame the beast, I now know why. —Jeff Mull

 
Embedded at Chopes Day 2 E-mail

EB_MLD7308Heairii Williams has dirty feet, and I don’t necessarily mean that in a bad way. They are coarse, calloused, swollen, filthy and wonderful. Like most people in the world, Williams walks most places he goes, sometimes with shoes, sometime without. The result of such shoeless journeys have left him with something more akin to a hoof than an actual human foot. But it’s these feet that have earned him one of the most coveted and sought after seeds in professional surfing. You see, Williams is a local Tahitian surfer who won the Von Zipper trials about a week back and has since just taken out Kekoa Bacalso in the opening of round of the Billabong Pro.

So what makes Williams so surf smooth? Without those goliath peds that seem to give hims such an uncanny sense of balance, Williams probably wouldn’t be here today. Perhaps you’re wondering why I’ve just dedicated 160 words to talking about someone’s feet? Well, for one, I was trying to be original, and two, I don’t know what else could possibly make Wiliiams surf so damn well here at Chopes…cause it aint his boards…the man’s only got a one-board quiver.

“Yeah, this is my only board,” he says to me and points to an aqua-toned 6’0” Tokoro. So to get this straight, Williams surfs the same board whether it be macking Chopes or playful Chopes. Which leaves me with one divine revelation: If it aint the boards making his surf so good, it must be his feet. —Jeff Mull

 
Embedded at Chopes E-mail

1180126437_TeahupooScenic_MLD3640_1Tahiti is a place completely unlike anything

Read more... [Embedded at Chopes]
 
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