You’d be hard pressed to find a more amicable lot of people than those that call the wave-rich island of Tahiti home. Bonjours, and merics are the words of the day and a friendly smile and nod of the head are as common as the perfect peaks out to sea. Needless to say, we could all learn a lot from the Tahitian people.
But perhaps most interestingly, from what I humbly gathered in my two weeks at the Billabong Pro, the Tahitians are not picky about their quiver. As long as it floats (most of the time) they’re out there. Bodyboard, shortboard, taking turns with your friends—they do it all, as long as it keeps them in the surf.
My eyes were opened to this one afternoon as I sat out in the lineup at Teahupoo, my fingernails digging into the fiberglass on my board, adrenaline pumping through my every vein. But low and behold, out paddles a young crop of teenage bodyboarders and surfers who proceed to dominate the peak, pulling into waves in mere inches of water. After a while, the bodyboarders and surfers would switch out their respective crafts and continued ripping. It was a sight to see. It was unfiltered happiness and stoke. Bodyboard or shortboard, they were having the time of their lives and putting on quite the show in the process.
“I don’t really care if I have to bodyboard or surf. They’re both fun,” said one of the groms after deftly slotting himself a half-dozen times.
After watching these kids laugh and push the limits out at Teahupoo for more than two hours, you can’t really argue with them. As long as they’re stoked and dominating, does it really matter if they’re doing it standing up or lying down? Not in their eyes. —Jeff Mull
Queen's Surf, Waikiki
August 24 - 28, 2010
Perfect day to remember Duke Paoa Kahanamoku If you've ridden...
ASP World Tour Men's event #5
Teahupo’o, Tahiti
August 23 - September 3 2010