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Surf

Embedded at Chopes Day 2

EB_MLD7308Heairii Williams has dirty feet, and I don’t necessarily mean that in a bad way. They are coarse, calloused, swollen, filthy and wonderful. Like most people in the world, Williams walks most places he goes, sometimes with shoes, sometime without. The result of such shoeless journeys have left him with something more akin to a hoof than an actual human foot. But it’s these feet that have earned him one of the most coveted and sought after seeds in professional surfing. You see, Williams is a local Tahitian surfer who won the Von Zipper trials about a week back and has since just taken out Kekoa Bacalso in the opening of round of the Billabong Pro.

So what makes Williams so surf smooth? Without those goliath peds that seem to give hims such an uncanny sense of balance, Williams probably wouldn’t be here today. Perhaps you’re wondering why I’ve just dedicated 160 words to talking about someone’s feet? Well, for one, I was trying to be original, and two, I don’t know what else could possibly make Wiliiams surf so damn well here at Chopes…cause it aint his boards…the man’s only got a one-board quiver.

“Yeah, this is my only board,” he says to me and points to an aqua-toned 6’0” Tokoro. So to get this straight, Williams surfs the same board whether it be macking Chopes or playful Chopes. Which leaves me with one divine revelation: If it aint the boards making his surf so good, it must be his feet. —Jeff Mull

Embedded at Chopes

1180126437_TeahupooScenic_MLD3640_1Tahiti is a place completely unlike anything

Up-Armored: Kekoa "Tank" Bacalso's '09 Tour Run

kekoabacalso_jr_mg_1036They call him Tank for a good reason: the man’s built like a goddamned wrecking ball.

T & C Grom Contest

Grom Poster WebJoin us at Queen's in Waikiki for the Town and Country Grom fest, May 30-31, 2009. Print out and entry form and join us to support Hawaii's best groms! More info here...

The Smith Brothers on Cribs

smith_bros._cribsIf you’re not up to speed on MTV’s Cribs these days, then you may have missed Kauai’s favorite brotherly trio, Alex, Koa, and Travis Smith, emblazoned on the silver screen

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Featured Articles

roxyjamj0confpress_BonnaureAquashot-0002Long Live the Queen


FREESURF: It seemed like you just took off on a roll this year. Granted there was some talk of a rivalry between you and Sally [Fitzgibbons], but it seemed like it was more of a matter of when, not if, you would secure your title this year. Was there a point this year when you felt like, “yeah, I can win a title this year”?

Carissa Moore: I think every woman on tour wants and believes that they can win a world title, otherwise they wouldn’t be competing at this level. Dad and I talked about the title a few times, but never more than using it as motivation. Sally was nipping at my heels the whole year and there was a placement shift halfway through where I was nipping at hers. It was so close that I never really could let my guard down, just had to keep my head focused and take everything one step at a time. When the seconds started counting down in the Steph-Sally semi in France and Steph was ahead, I think that was finally the moment that I let it all go. Read more...

An All-Star Crew Descends On Perfect Cloudbreak

KohlChristensenBrunoLemos6314Kohl Christenson, underground in more ways than one. Read more...

_Rainos-Heff_MG_0564Billabong Team Manager/Mentor to Keanu Asing

Freesurf: What was your life like before you became a team manager?
Rainos Hayes: Well, I grew up on the North Shore pretty much in the same place that I live now, kind of by Sunset Beach. I was a pro for a while and rode for Quiksilver from about 15 to 25 years old and had a limited amount of success.

Read more...

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