On the Cover: The anatomy of a Pipe Master E-mail
onthecover5-4.jpg
There are thousands of surf breaks around the world, if not millions. Some spots are well documented and packed on a daily basis and others still peel perfectly onto empty shores where fishermen still throw net, completely unaware that people all around the world have dedicated their lives to riding waves and getting barreled.

While Pipeline is as far from uncrowded as you can get, every wave documented by a litany of steadfast photographers, it still remains an enigma of sorts. With many moods tempered by size and swell direction, Pipe lures surfers into its throttling womb under the guise of ultimate barrel perfection. Many attempt to master the nuances of the wave over their lifetimes and even the select few we recognize as the best of the best at Pipe still take a licking from time to time.

From two to twenty feet, there is a power inherent in each wave that materializes at few others in the world. It is by far the deadliest, most humbling and dramatic of barrels. Just sitting in the channel and watching an 8-foot set throw top to bottom will kick in the adrenaline so hard through your veins that your head will spin.

And while a handful of dedicated chargers risk their lives to pull under heaving lips, you have to wonder if Pipeline is indeed tame-able. Can Pipeline truly be mastered? The unpredictability of riding a wave that detonates in its entirety as an unharnessed force of nature upon a shallow, puka-riddled reef can never be truly mastered. It’s impossible for every barrel to be made. It is that dynamic uncertainty that keeps a core group of chargers sitting deep in the lineup.


ON THE COVER: Nathan Fletcher
PHOTO: Tron

» No Comments
» Post Comment
Only registered users can write a comment.
Please login or register.
 
< Prev   Next >